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The auto bloc is a friction hitch used to back up your break hand in a rappel or lowering scenario. It is the simplest friction hitch to tie.

Appropriate Uses rock climbing and canyoneering:

  • Rappel break hand backup
  • Lowering break hand backup


  • Easy to attachment to rope


  • 4 ft loop of 6mm nylon cord
  • tied in a loop with a double fisherman’s knot
  • Softer cord will grab the rope best




Here are the steps to tie the Auto Bloc:

-clip the prusik loop into a locking carabiner

-wrap the loop 3 times (for two ropes) up the rope (4 times for a single rope)

-clip the end of the loop back into the carabiner

*Always test friction hitches before using them. Never have any life support system rely on a single friction hitch